Breitling Navitimer: The Top 5 References of All Time

In this article, we explore the history and evolution of one of the most iconic pilot’s watches ever made: the Breitling Navitimer. We select our five favorite references based on their historical significance and personal appeal. We also include a modern re-edition that pays tribute to the original Navitimer.

The Breitling Navitimer is a legendary watch that has been in production since 1954. It was designed for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) as a tool watch that could perform various calculations using a slide rule and a chronograph. The Navitimer has a distinctive dial with three subdials and a rotating bezel with numbers and scales. The watch has a loyal fan base among pilots, collectors and celebrities, and has seen many variations over the decades. In this article, we will highlight our top five references of the Breitling Navitimer, starting from the first model to the latest re-edition.

The first reference on our list is the Breitling Navitimer ref. 806, which was introduced in 1954 and officially named in 1955. This is the original Navitimer that set the standard for all the subsequent models. It had a 40mm stainless steel case, a black dial with white subdials and applied Arabic numerals, and a “beaded” bezel with small bumps around the edge. The dial also featured the AOPA wings logo, as this was the official watch of the association. The watch was powered by two different movements: the Valjoux 72 from 1954 to 1955, and the Venus 178 from 1955 onwards. Both were manual-winding chronograph movements with a column wheel and a cam mechanism. The ref. 806 was also available in gold-plated and full-gold versions, but these are very rare.

 

The Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 is highly sought-after by collectors for its historical importance and its classic design. It is also very rare, especially the early models with the Valjoux 72 movement and the “Pre-806” models from 1954. These can fetch over €20K depending on the condition. A more common ref. 806 with the Venus 178 movement from the late 1950s can cost between €9K and €15K.

The second reference on our list is the Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 “Reverse Panda”, which was produced from 1965 to 1972. This reference marked a significant change in the dial design of the Navitimer, as it switched from an “all black” dial to a “reverse panda” dial with black subdials on a white or silver background. This made the watch more legible and more modern-looking. The bezel also changed from a beaded style to a straight-cut or serrated style with larger ridges. The movement remained the same as before: the Venus 178 manual-winding chronograph caliber.

 

The Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 “Reverse Panda” is one of the most popular and iconic references of the Navitimer family. It was worn by famous personalities such as Miles Davis, Jim Clark and Graham Hill in the 1960s, adding to its cool factor. It also has a contemporary appeal with its 41mm case size and its contrasted dial. A good example of this reference can cost between €5K and €10K.

 

The third reference on our list is the Breitling Navitimer Date ref. 7806, which was launched in 1972 and discontinued in 1978. This reference was the first Navitimer in this traditional case style to feature a date function at between four and five o’clock on the dial (the Chrono-Matic “Big Case” references had it earlier). To accommodate this function, Breitling used a different movement: the Valjoux 7740 manual-winding chronograph caliber with a cam mechanism instead of a column wheel. The movement also replaced the hour counter at six o’clock with a running seconds counter, making it a two-register chronograph instead of a three-register one. The dial design also changed slightly, with the “Navitimer” name moving up under the “Breitling Geneve” text, and some red accents added to the dial and the slide rule.

The fourth reference on our list is the Breitling Navitimer ref. 81600, which was introduced in 1986 and lasted until 1990. This reference was the first Navitimer to be released after Willy Breitling sold the company to Ernest Schneider in 1979. It was also the first Navitimer to use a modern movement: the Lemania 1873 manual-winding chronograph caliber, which is still used today by Omega for its Speedmaster Professional. The ref. 81600 was a faithful reproduction of the classic Navitimer, with a 41.5mm stainless steel case, a black dial with white subdials and applied Arabic numerals, and a beaded bezel with 94 beads. The dial also featured the twin-jet logo that Breitling used in the 1980s.

The Breitling Navitimer ref. 81600 is an important reference in the history of the Navitimer, as it marked the revival of the model after a hiatus of several years. It was also a successful reference, as it sold well and attracted new customers to the brand. It was famously worn by French singer Serge Gainsbourg, who paired it with a platinum racing bracelet for a bold look. A ref. 81600 can be found for around €3.5K–5K.

 

The fifth and final reference on our list is not a vintage one, but a modern re-edition: the Breitling Navitimer 806 1959 Re-edition, which was released in 2019 as a limited edition of 1,959 pieces. This reference is a tribute to the original Navitimer ref. 806 from 1959, and it replicates every detail of that model with remarkable accuracy and craftsmanship. It has a 40mm stainless steel case, a black dial with white subdials and applied Arabic numerals, and a beaded bezel with exactly 94 beads. The dial also features the AOPA wings logo without the Breitling signature, as some of the vintage models did. The watch is powered by the Breitling B09 movement, which is based on the in-house B01 caliber but modified to have a manual-winding mechanism.

The Breitling Navitimer 806 1959 Re-edition is one of the best re-editions ever made by any brand, as it respects the original design and spirit of the Navitimer without compromising on quality or performance. It is also a great way to enjoy the charm and character of a vintage Navitimer without worrying about its condition or authenticity. The watch sold out quickly when it was launched, but it can still be found on the pre-owned market for around €8K–8.5K.

 

Conclusion

These are our top five references of the Breitling Navitimer, but there are many more that deserve recognition and appreciation. The Navitimer is one of the most iconic and influential watches in history, and it has a rich and diverse legacy that spans seven decades. Whether you prefer a vintage or a modern model, there is a Navitimer for every taste and budget. Let us know what your favorite Breitling Navitimer reference is in the comments below.